Accessories

New Motion Trigger

New Quad Detecter

Extra Sensors

Camera Cords

Foot Switch

Clamps

Adaptors

Flash triggering

Bat Gallery

Bird gallery

images from users

Insects & Animals

Great People who use the Phototrap and offer Excellent Nature workshops

Set Ups

Trouble Shooting

Item#17

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New Motion Trigger

This new Motion Detector for the standard Phototrap Model 33 will expand your capabilities of capturing wildlife in the field. It is a fast setup for animals on trails, water holes, streams and open areas. It detects a combination of movement and heat to trigger the camera via the Phototrap.

The unit is 3 x 2 x 4 inches tall with the coverage area of 40 ft wide and 10 ft tall out at the maximum distance of 20 ft straight in front of the sensor. The height distance covered is 10 ft out at 20 ft from the face of the sensor. With the mask in place the coverage area is 7 ft in width and 8-9 ft in height again at the max distance of 20 ft from the face of the sensor. These figures are approximate as they can be affected by weather conditions. The Motion detector has a 25 ft cord that plugs into the white RCA connector on the Phototrap. Four AA batteries (not included) will keep the motion detector running continuously for weeks. This will also allow the battery in the Phototrap to last up to 3 times longer when the motion detector is used. A photography standard 1/4-20 threaded nut is attached to the detector for mounting on light stands, ball heads, and flexible clamps.

Remove the Mask from the sensor. This was in place for shipping and to show proper placement when used on the sensor. These Masks are covered below. Insert 4 AA batteries in back of the sensor. On/Off slide switch is on left side of the sensor, Center position is off. To turn on the sensor push the slide switch up to the low setting. The sensor will Work in either HI or Low position but low is best. Leave the Motion trigger OFF when plugging the white RCA plug into the white RCA jack on the Phototrap M#33.

Place the sensor in the position for detecting the subject. Turn on the Phototrap, then turn on the motion detector. The motion trigger takes up to 2 minutes to adjust to the environment it is facing. Set the Phototrap up so you can see the trip light when you do a walk test to be sure it is covering the desired area. Or turn on your camera/flash to listen/see when the camera fires per your position. The sensor above is wide open.

The picture at the top shows the motion trigger with a mask in place. This limits the area of detection. Many different size of holes can be used to limit the detection area covered. Squares or any opening in the mask can be used to limit the area of detection.

The masks are 2x4 REPOSTABLE address labels made by Avery #55463. You can lightly spray paint to whatever color you want. A sheet of labels is included with the unit. Motion Triggers are sensitive to limbs, brush and grass moving in the detection area, so avoid setting up when windy conditions can cause un- desired triggering. Use the trip reset dial on the Phototrap to limit the number of images taken on a day/night if the wind does pick up unexpectedly. Always place the opening of the mask over the center of the lens on the motion trigger. Use the small hole at the top for alignment. The hole can be covered.


The motion trigger is not waterproof. In poor conditions or just to keep the unit free of dust it can be covered with a 1 quart clear storage bag as shown above . There is little, if any, loss in detection with the clear side of the bag facing the detection area.

Contact me anytime with questions or problems. .

Cost $ 70.00 This includes shipping. Outside USA $87.00 this includes shipping. back to new products





New Quad Detector Available in December 2014

Taking pre orders now. Please inquire for more infomation. As you can see from the photos the quad detector can be custom made to fit your needs.

The Quad Detector has 4 connections for infrared photodetectors that trigger independently of each other when the infrared or lazer light(s) used to activate them is blocked. The blocking action sends a trigger impulse to the phototrap triggering the camera or flash. This happens in Micro seconds making it highly suitable for all high speed photography.

The photodetectors are plugged into the white RCA jacks on the quad unit with RCA cords of varying lenghts from 3 to 6 feet. The Quad Detector is connected to the phototrap with a single RCA cord that supplies the power to the unit. The on/off power switch on the phototrap activates them both.

The Quad detector is a unit of 4 detector ports with an on/off switch for each one allowing you to work the number of sensors needed for the pacticular task. These units can be inter connected as shown in the image above to give you 12 detectors to place as you need for you project.

The Quad Detector works only in "STUIDO" or outside in the darkness of "NIGHT". A solid cloudy day with no breaks in the clouds could give you good results out side.

1 Stand Alone Quad Detector with 4 photodetectors and 1 infrared emitter both on 6 ft cords with inline holders simialer to the one shown above left has a cost of $490.00. This stand alone unit can also be used with or without the phototrap. I can build a unit to fit your needs. Please contact me by phone or e-mail.

Some detector holders shown below as well as the photodetectors. These photodetectors can be placed in different cells to cover a selected detection area.

Lazer Beams can be used as the emitted light source to activate the photodetectors but the cost is so much more, and along with the difficulty in linning them up with the detectors they are of no advantage in my opinion. This is especially true at longer distances between emitter and detector(s).





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Separate Emitter $55.00... S&H... US $6.00. Does not include Battery

By using this emitter with a separate battery allows you to expand the distance from emitter to detector by up to 80 ft. This set up will keep the trap and your camera further away from the trail or trigger point lessing the possability of damage or disruption to your equipment by larger animals. The battery in the trap itself will last for a longer period of time as it does not have to power the emitter. Cord is 10ft long.





Extra set of sensors/splitter $105.00S&H...US $8.00

You can use 2 sets of sensors with the trap at the same time with the splitter. In the REFLECT mode each set will trigger independently of the other. This will allow you to cover more area of detection at the same location. An owl coming into a nest hole from a left or right direction for instance. Or you want another camera to catch the subject leaving the same hole. Each camera will trigger but with digital the problem is not great. You could also cover 2 trails or landing areas. It is a good idea to have a back up set if your in very remote areas.back to new products





CAMERA CORDS

A camera cord comes with each unit of your choice. The cords are 25 ft long and have a switch box close to the camera that allows you to trigger the camera with the cameras meter on or off. With the meter on you get the shortest lag time for the shutter to open. You need the meter on when ever subjects are passing through the frame with any speed like birds coming to the nest hole or bats getting water. The meter can be off for subjects that are moving slowly through the frame like a deer on a trail or a fox coming out of the den. These cords are available for any brand of camera that can be triggered by push button cord. Cord shown is for Canon. Nikon and other brands come with the switch but have a single RCA cord

Extra cord is $45.00 + S&H of $8.00 in US.back to new products




Foot Switch

The Foot Switch connects to the trap as shown : Please click here to see graphic.

The foot switch allows you hands free operation of the trap(and camera) when your working in stuido with subjects you are trying to photograph jumping,flying from one point to another. Using this switch will help eliminate the flashes or camera from firing while your trying to get the subject in the right position to jump or fly.

It works like this, after you have set up and tested the trigger point, camera and or flash positions you turn the off the switch on the small black box. This puts the control of the IR emitter to the foot switch. The trap will not trigger while your getting the subject in position to jump if your hands break the beam. When the subject is ready to go you step on the foot switch. This will turn on the IR light and also open the camera in bulb. When you take your foot off the switch the IR is shut off and the shutter in closed.

The foot switch has a Yellow connector for the camera to be use in Bulb mode other wise you plug the camera cord into the trap.

Foot Switch as shown$85.00 + S&H $8.00. back to new products





Flexable Clamps

The clamps are made of 3/4 inch flexable plastic segments with a 2 inch clamp at the lower end and a removeable 1 inch clamp at the top. The 1 inch clamp is held in place with a 1/4-20 wing nut. You can remove it to put flash(flash holders)in its place.

They eliminate the need for a ballheads as well as light stands and make for placing the sensors where you want them fast and easy. This cuts your set up time and minute changes can be made quickly. Can be used to hold perches or food dishes where you want them. A must have to get sensors exactly where you need them.

Price $45.00 ea for 16 inch lengh that will hold sensors,standard flashes and perches. $55.00 ea for 24 inch that are best for sensor placement in most cases. S&H is $10 in US.back to new products



Adaptors

These Insect adaptors fit inside the tubes on the sensors. They are used to narrow the IR beam to pinpoint the subject better. They work in any combo and in both modes of trap operation. The END caps(square ones) are best used in Direct mode and only on the detector sensor. They work great for macro work. They are not always nessessary for insect work however.

Cost...$15.00.......S&H $8.00 in US. back to new products

"End cap on detector IS adpt on emitter.



Triggering the flash(s) with the Trap

There are several ways to trigger the flash(s) with the phototrap. In the upper left photo you see 2 hotshoe adaptors modifyied to work either plugged into the camera via the PC adaptor on the camera or you can remove the PC adaptor and plug the 2 hotshoes or 1 directly into the camera/flash jacks on the phototrap. This 1 flash could also be the master.

The center photo shows the 'ishoot' wireless flash triggers and how to connect them to the trap.The 'ishoot' transmitter is in a hotshoe adaptor that connects to the phototrap. When the beam is broken it will trigger the flash(s). These wireless triggers for the flash work great if your transmitter and receivers are within 10 ft of each other.

The right photo shows another way to use the 'ishoot' wireless triggers without a hot shoe adaptor. A short adaptor cord comes with the transmitter and can can be directly cannected to an RCA cord that will plug into the trap.I make all the RCA wires I sell 25ft long tThe adaptors can also be made by the photographer.

For cords using the 'ishoot' system ie, 1 trans, 1 receiver,1 25 ft RCA cord. Cost...$60.00 ....S&H $8.00

For 1 25 ft RCA cord with hotshoe Cost...$30.00 ....S&H $8.00. back to new products



Bats captured with phototrap or Phototrap/Quad Combo



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Birds captured with a Phototrap



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images from users around the world



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Insects, Reptiles and Animals



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Great People who use the Phototrap and offer Excellent Nature workshops



Links
 
Alan Murphy Nature Photogrphy, Workshops
Kathy Adams Clark Nature Photography Workshops
Joe McDonald Nature photography,workshops
Tom Whetten Nature photography,workshops
Dave Northcott High-speed Nature Photography

Kathleen Reeder

Nature Photography Workshops
Nate Chappell Nature Photography Workshops
Rob Palmer Nature Photography Workshops
Chris Dodds Nature Photography Workshops
Kevin Shank Nature Friend Magazine/ Photography/Books
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Links
 

There are many ways to set up the sensors









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Trouble shooting the M#33

One of the main things to understand on the photo trap is the operation of the trip light. When you’re setting up make sure that you can see the trip light from wherever you’re at. If you’re setting the sensors up 20 feet away from where the you want a box to be at the finish, just put the box at your feet or tip the box on its side so you can see the trip light as your setting up.

If when you turn the power switch on the trip light is on and stays on you have to do something to turn it off so it is ready to fire when something breaks the beam. If you’re in the Reflect mode and the trip light is on this means something is reflecting the IR light back to the detector and keeping The photo trap triggered. You need clear space up to five or 6 feet past where the subject is expected to be. If you can’t get this clear space, then you can split the beams. See how the beams are split in the set ups Tab.

In the direct mode, if the trip light is on and stays on when you turn the power switch on, this means that the beams are NOT aligned. In this mode the sensors have to be pointed towards each other. Once you have place the beans in a position to trigger on the subject, use your hand to new mimic the speed you think the subject will be passing through the beams to the perch or nest hole etc. As you are doing this watch the trip light, when you see the trip light come on, stop your hand.

Do this two or three times, stopping your hand each time. Where your hand ends up is a good place to frame and focus the camera on. Fine tune after the subject passes through a few times. The orange light on the bottom of the sensor shows it to be the emitter, the green light is the detector which I usually leave the tape over.

This keeps the infrared light from entering the detector when you split the beams in some situations.

The camera cord for the Nikon cameras only have one RCA cord and is plugged into one of the yellow RCA connectors on the photo trap. The red switch on the box is for the control of shooting with the meter on and off. With the “I” pushed in the meter in the camera is turned on and stays on till the “O” is pushed in. You cannot review your images until this switch has the “O” in pushed in. Canon cords will have two RCA connectors, one is yellow, and one black. Plug them into the yellow and black RCA Jacks on the photo trap. This cord also comes with a black ground cap attached, if you have a late model Canon you may only need to plug-in the yellow RCA plug. But you must leave the black ground cap attached the camera cord. The switch on the camera cord is for the control of shooting with the meter on or off. With the white dot pushed in the meter is on and stays on. You cannot review your images until you push this switch back to the left (white dot up). With the meter on, the cameras no matter the make will have the shortest lag time.

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There are many ways to set up the sensors



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